Speedmaster LCD Brought Back To Life

Nevertheless, the luxury watch industry has every motivation to seek out legitimate ways for people who want to benefit from modern technology to also continue enjoying the ability to wear mechanical watches. Options for this include wearing a smartwatch during the day hours and a mechanical watch at night, wearing a smartwatch on one wrist and a traditional watch on the other, or wearing a traditional watch case attached to some type of smart-strap. This latter approach is the closest to what Montblanc has in mind with the Montblanc e-Strap.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is in fact one of the biggest supporters of filmmaking in the watchmaking world, as the longtime official partner of the Venice Film Festival, the founder of the New York Film Festival’s “Filmmaker In Residence” program, and a patron of prestigious film fests spanning San Sebastian and Toronto to Shanghai and Dubai. Beyond the cinematic connection, more than anything, Tom Cross has been a longtime fan of JLC’s epitome of modern classicism. “I’m a fan of modern design, and a watch like [Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature model] the Reverso is an icon up there with the Speedmaster, or even an Eames Chair,” Cross says. “It’s completely distinctive. At the same time, I’m fascinated by a watch’s mechanism and complications, and Jaeger has such an innovative heritage in this area.”

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Additionally, a low train count could have been selected to conserve power, as higher operating frequencies drain a watch's power reserve. The V-11 already features 2 barrels out of necessity - the alarm needs its own power source - and the movement designers might have dropped the vph in an attempt to reduce the strain on the mainsprings. That's a decision I can't really fault, given this watch's primary complication is the alarm.

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Starting and stopping activities is a couple clicks away. Once started, each activity comes preloaded with a series of customizable data pages that constantly, in real time, feed the data nerd like myself. Of course, this assumes you have already paired the Garmin Fenix 2 with the Garmin ANT+ HRM Run heart rate strap (for running, hiking) and with the bicycle cadence or power meter ANT+ sensors. All these are an extra or add-ons, except for the power meters, which tend to be in the 00+ mark. Yup, being a data junky is expensive.

The DUW 4101 will have a 42-hour power reserve and 23 jewels, but more interesting is its six position adjustment which fights the accuracy-harming influence of gravity. It also beats at a leisurely 21,600 BPH. Naturally, the Nomos Timeless Club will feature a sapphire case back, so the owner can enjoy the exquisite movement.

It is imperative to identify where the appeal of a luxury watch comes from. We already know that mechanical timepieces are far from the most efficient way to tell the time. We have phones; we have laptops; we may even have an MP3 player that is more accurate than a 0,000 Patek. But we still want the wristwatch because it has a soul. It is a reminder of human endeavor and skill. It is a treasure and a status symbol. It is beautiful in a way the concealed calculations of a circuit-board will never be. Agreeing to let these electronic invaders come into contact with a finely wrought mechanical movement is heresy, right?

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So what of this brouhaha I mentioned earlier?

While 2015 also sees new watches with tourbillons or multiple tourbillons from Roger Dubuis, the most exciting news, in my opinion, is the release of the brand new Roger Dubuis produced caliber RD820SQ automatic movement. Produced in the canton of Geneva, it bears the Geneva Seal, and is fully modern yet minimalist and cool looking automatic mechanism. Operating at 4Hz (28,000 bph), the single barrel offers about 60 hours of power reserve and features a self-winding automatic micro-rotor. The rotor also happens to have its own semi-skeletonization design. This is the first time Roger Dubuis has produced an automatic version of their distinctive skeletonized movements.

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Montblanc Chronométrie Dual Time Watch Hands-On Hands-On Montblanc Chronométrie Dual Time Watch Hands-On Hands-On

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It wasn’t until I put the first Carrera watch to come as a result of Jean-Claude Biver’s leadership of TAG Heuer on my wrist, that I could appreciate what he was trying to do with this new model – one that basically just looked like a skeletonized Carrera watch in early press pictures. This watch is going to be controversial among TAG Heuer lovers and it isn’t for everyone, but I think it is a positive move for the brand in its efforts to re-enliven itself as the demographic TAG Heuer. The brand once so popular with younger demographics had lost much of its entry-level appeal, being mostly interesting to more mature watch lovers with a soft place in their heart for the old days of Heuer and people like Steve McQueen. If TAG Heuer is going to be relevant to the younger demographic, it needs to appeal to their tastes with items that are more affordable. So what does that mean for this 45mm-wide steel and titanium Carrera watch with a dressed-up version of the in-house made caliber 1887 movement – that TAG Heuer is calling the caliber Heuer 01? It means TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver is borrowing from his own success at watch brand Hublot (also an LVMH group company) and offering something with the same type of aesthetic look as the modern Big Bang, but much more affordable and at TAG Heuer. It’s brilliant, will likely piss off a lot of TAG Heuer traditionalists, and will ultimately be a sales success. Price for the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 is 4,900 Swiss Francs.

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Pricing has also been an important element in Bremont’s strategy. While the concept and scale of “affordability” is at best a sliding metric, Nick and Giles were adamant from the start that their core range remain attainable and consistently priced competitively to their market segment (00- 00 on most pieces). This makes them an attractive alternative to other options from other name brand competitors who have played the “luxury card” in an attempt to justify increased price points. While many independent brands have fallen victim to poorly thought out pricing strategy, Bremont’s five year development period and thoughtful planning is clearly evidenced here as well, with strong values on the secondary market proving their strategy a success.

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Beyond Bremont

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It's a warm, tropical afternoon in mid April as our chartered plane makes the rapid descent to the small airport on St. Barths, located in the Island's "major" city of Gustavia. From above, I can see the sailing boats competing right off the coast during what was the second day of the 6th annual Les Voiles de St. Barth - a high-end boat racing event inspired by France's Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez. St. Barths is technically part of France, and the French-speaking Island's small streets and charming cafes easily remind you of views in the south of France, only with a more "islandy" vibe well-suited for the Caribbean getaway. One of Richard Mille's few Caribbean dealers is located on the island.

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta 'Les Voiles De St. Barth' 2015 Limited Edition Watch Hands-On Hands-On
Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta Les Voiles de St. Barth watch

It sounds cliche, but the reality is that most people buying an Apple Watch Edition aren't going to be terribly bothered by the notion that they will want to get another one 12-18 months down the line when an upgrade is available. Furthermore, there will likely be some third party willing to buy it for a few thousand dollars when they want to update, assuming they want to sell it. Gold is still gold, after all, and it has inherent value that will persist.

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The decision of whether to get the updated Tudor Pelagos in black, or in the new blue is going to be difficult for people - especially if they have an existing model. To update it with a newer model is reasonable, but completely based on whether or not the person getting it is doing so for the added color or the new movement. If it is the latter, their outgoing Pelagos is probably going to be OK to stick with, unless they are the type of person who always must have the best in mechanical stuff.

Blancpain L-Evolution Tourbillon Carrousel Watch For 2015 Hands-On Hands-On Blancpain L-Evolution Tourbillon Carrousel Watch For 2015 Hands-On Hands-On

The Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph isn't new to white ceramic, actually, but hopefully, the Omega Speedmaster White Side Of The Moon will do better than the last one. In 2012, Omega debuted a white version of the Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph watch (hands-on here) that I understand was never commercially released. I really like that model, but agree that the Omega Speedmaster White Side Of The Moon that matches the white ceramic dial and bezel insert with a fully white zirconium oxide case does it even better. It is entirely possible that in 2012 the world simply wasn't ready yet for a white Speedmaster. My understanding is that, since then, it has finally become cool to wear white men's sports watches (which I've personally been saying is cool for over five years now - so, pat on the back, Ariel).

If you think about it, there are countless interesting ways an item with continuous and extremely reliable glow could prove to be useful. MB-Microtec was founded in 1969 (it was 1989 when the Traser brand was established), and its main profile is as a manufacturer of tritium gas tubes of all sizes is, in fact, not based on making the tritium gas tubes used for watches, but instead the manufacturing of slightly larger tubes that are used for the sights on pistols and guns. Specifically, an approximately 1-inch-long tube, most often in the color of red, is placed at the end of the barrel of the gun, while two green pieces are placed into the sight located at the other end, closer to the shooter. Therefore, when the police officer or special forces soldier goes into a dark room, he/she knows exactly where the gun is pointed, thanks to the glowing bars at the two ends of the gun. And because these pieces glow continuously, they can rely on the pieces always being visible in low-light situations, as opposed to luminescent paint that needs to be charged and fades over time.

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